Elevating Fashion: A New Sustainable Vegan Leather From UNCAGED

Vegan leather. A term that has shape-shifted a lot through recent years: from being synonymous with cheap plastic, toxic PVC and all things "fake", it has risen to covetable status thanks to the evolution of plant-derived materials, enticing even the pickiest of high-fashion brands. 

But for all their advantages, the new plant-based leather innovations had their shortcomings. Scalability, performance, some aspects related to sustainability were still questions to be answered and, like for anything new to the market, there was still work to do. And one company doing that work is UNCAGED Innovations.

By Sascha Camilli 

Entrepreneur Stephanie Downs teamed up with Dr Xiakun Wang to create materials that find their base in structures similar to collagen, which is found in animal skins, to craft materials that didn't rely on animals or petroleum-derived synthetics. The resulting material, ELEVATE, exudes quality alongside durability. Fully scaled, cost-competitive and potentially plastic-free, this could very well be the leather of the future. "ELEVATE is a science-driven material that redefines what leather can be," says Downs. "Developed using our proprietary BioFuze technology, ELEVATE is composed of grain-derived proteins structured to mirror collagen at the molecular level. The result is not an imitation, but a genuine evolution of leather: supple, strong, sophisticated and created without animals or petroleum-derived toxins."

The BioFuze technology, invented by UNCAGED, combines grain-based proteins with other naturally derived components that mimic the fibril structure of animal skins, matching it in performance and authentic look. But why did UNCAGED feel the need to create this technology in the first place? "Animal leather has long been synonymous with heritage, luxury, and craftsmanship. Yet its production carries a profound environmental and ethical toll from carbon emissions and chemical tanning to water waste and animal exploitation," explains Downs. But animal-free options aren't automatically better, either. "Most vegan alternatives, while animal-free, often lean heavily on petroleum-based plastics like polyurethane. These materials tend to underperform on durability, feel, and aesthetic finesse and frequently introduce new sustainability concerns. The gap, then, is clear: the world needs a material that matches the sensory richness and performance of traditional leather while aligning with the values of the modern, conscious consumer. This is precisely the space where UNCAGED operates."

But what makes ELEVATE a more sustainable vegan leather? "Compared to conventional leather, ELEVATE reduces greenhouse gas emissions by up to 95%, cuts water usage by 89%, and consumes 71% less energy," says Downs. "Select versions are entirely plastic-free." Some iterations of ELEVATE do indeed contain a polyurethane topcoat that represents 1% of the entire material composition. How does Downs view this? "While we offer a bioPU topcoat, which is less than 1% of the material composition, our commitment is to eliminate its presence in future product generations. The aim is simple: no compromise on performance, no compromise on principles."

Innovative brands are already getting on the ELEVATE train: German label Melina Bucher is often the first to champion new-generation materials and is now launching the Nubian bag crafted from UNCAGED's vegan leather. “This collaboration unites two visions – ours in luxury design and UNCAGED’s in material science – to explore what the future of accessories can be” says Melina Bucher, founder and creative director. “ELEVATE allows us to push the boundaries of materiality without compromising our values.”

Melina Bucher isn't the only brand enamoured with ELEVATE. Luxury vegan accessory brand Kaila Katherine has created a vegan wallet with the material, showcasing its versatility and high-fashion appeal. Founder Mikaila Roncevich says: "ELEVATE is a perfect example of leveraging some of the most exciting advances in materials science to create a more ethical and sustainable fashion system. This leather alternative is not only functional and beautiful, it also demonstrates the capabilities we have to seamlessly replace animal-derived materials in our supply chains. ELEVATE is beautiful and we are so excited to work with the brilliant team at Uncaged."

One issue that many material innovators and industry insiders lament when it comes to new-gen materials is scalability: as these textiles are such newcomers to the market, matching today's . But UNCAGED has a plan. "Scalability is the bridge between concept and cultural shift. At UNCAGED, we’ve engineered ELEVATE to be seamlessly compatible with existing manufacturing infrastructure," says Downs. "This enables us to scale without needing to reinvent supply chains, an often-overlooked barrier in the adoption of next-gen materials. Our material is already at scale in roll-to-roll production at multiple facilities that can produce millions of meters per year."

New-generation materials represent fashion for the future, so how does Downs envision the years to come for vegan leather? "We envision a world where 'alternative' materials are no longer framed as substitutes, but as the aspirational choice. Where elegance and ethics are intrinsically linked, where innovation becomes the new tradition." We couldn't agree more.

By Sascha Camilli

About Sascha

Sascha Camilli is a vegan writer, speaker and activist. Her book Vegan Style is out now on Murdoch Books. For more about Sascha, you can read our interview with her or sign up to her newsletter Kind of Wild. 

Cover image and second image by UNCAGED Innovations. Final image by Melina Bucher.

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